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Holidaymakers searching for holiday rentals in Pistoia also enquired about apartments in Lucca, villas in Camaiore and villas in Bagni di Lucca

Pistoia, the hidden jewel in Tuscan's crown

Tuscany has been popular for many years and is visited daily by a mass of tourists who explore its entire length and breadth; from Pisa and Lucca to Florence, Siena, and San Gimignano, and all places in a between, but it is still possible to find a few places in Tuscany that have been overlooked or even missed completely. Pistoia is one such town, this hidden jewel, located in the north of Tuscany.

Pistoia is everything Italian and is truly Tuscan; it can be busy, bustling and sometimes even has traffic congestion and yet at other times it is sleepy, peaceful and reverts to a previous era of Italian life.

Well what has Pistoia got that makes it such a jewel? In the Basilica Madonna Dell’Umiltà, Pistoia boasts the 3rd largest cupola in Italy after Rome and Florence. The historical town centre with its concentration of buildings and monuments has a lovely medieval Piazza del Duomo Square surrounded by ancient streets most of which are traffic free. It has a twice weekly market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, a haven for genuine bargains and it is a market truly geared for the locals. Pistoia also boasts some very chic clothes and shoe shops with all the latest designs and colours and not at the lavish prices found in most other Italian cities. But be warned, this town shuts completely between 1pm and 3pm every day; a good excuse to search out and sample some of the great cafes, bars and restaurants.

Most evenings from 7pm the locals visit their favourite bar or cafe to take an aperitif, sadly this is now being referred to more and more as a ”happy hour”, snacks and canapés are served free and people relax and catch up with friends and all the latest news and gossip over a cocktail or glass of “prosecco”.

The best bars in town are the centrally located “Caffe Cavour” and the ultra trendy “Santopalato” (the holy one). The restaurant of Santa Maria del Giglio is housed in a converted chapel and is truly stunning, while traditional Tuscan dishes are served daily in Pistoia’s oldest eatery “Lo Storno”. Further a field, but well worth the extra effort, is “Il Frantoio” in Via Valdibrana where they serve the best food in the entire area.

The “passeggiata” is still a highlight of this town’s week and on Saturday evenings from 5pm the youngest “Pistoiese” parade their fashion around the town centre. At 6pm they are joined by the older inhabitants who are certainly the most stylish and sophisticated. Afterwards everyone heads back home or on to a bar or restaurant. An informal “passeggiata” also takes place each Sunday in the late afternoon.

If you want to explore Pistoia’s culture then the silver alter of San Jacopo housed in the main cathedral of San Zeno (what a great name for a saint) is located in Piazza del Duomo along with the Bell Tower and the octagonal baptistery of San Giovanni in Corte and Pistoia’s main museum (Museo Civico). The church facade of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas in Via Cavour and the Basilica Madonna Dell’Umiltà with its magnificent dome, planned by Vasari, is located in Via Della Madonna. The Ospedale del Ceppo with its frieze by Della Robbia is magnificent and the many churches in the town have great examples of ornate pulpits and splendid musical organs, the best of which are to be found in the churches of ; San Francesco, Sant’ Andrea, Spirito Santo and San Bartolomeo in Pantano Pistoia hosts the world famous “Pistoia Blues” festival each July and past headliners include; Bob Dylan and Santana. This mammoth 3 day festival takes place in Piazza del Duomo as does “Giostra dell’Orso (the tournament of the bear) where the four ancient districts of Pistoia compete in a grand and colourful equestrian tournament on the 25th July to celebrate the feast of San Jacopo (St James), Pistoia’s patron saint.

Amongst Pistoia’s many famous sons are; Giorgio Rospilgoisi who became Pope Clemente 1X (1660-69), the artist and sculptor, Marino Marini (1901-1980) whose works are displayed in the Palazzo del Tau, and the architect Giovanni Mechullucci (1891- 1990) whose documents and plans are housed in the mezzanine of the town hall.

For children, Pistoia boasts a small but well maintained zoo and Collodi, 20 minutes away, is the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini the author of the world famous story of Pinocchio, a wooden puppet who dreams of being a real boy. The author’s restored house and gardens are set in a themed park based on the puppet’s adventures. While, Vinci, Siena and the lovely national park area of Garfagnana are all within easy reach of Pistoia by car.

The train and bus links from Pistoia make it a fantastic base from which to explore other parts of northern Tuscany. The train-line runs west to the coast with stops at the chic’ spa town of Montecatini, (10 minutes away), and on to; Lucca, Pisa and Viareggio. Florence to the east is only 30 minutes away.

If you take the time to search out this hidden jewel in Tuscany’s crown you will not be disappointed. And if you truly want to sample Italian life the Tuscan way then a visit to Pistoia is a must!

You can reach Pistoia:

BY CAR:

From Florence - A11 Motorway to Pisa, 29 km From Lucca - A11 Motorway to Florence, 37 km From Pisa - A11 Motorway to Florence, 57 km From Bologna - A1 Motorway to Florence and A11 Motorway to Pisa, 91 km From Rome - A1 Motorway to Bologna and A11 Motorway to Pisa, 290 km

BY TRAIN: Daily connections from and to Florence, Bologna and Pisa (www.trenitalia.com)

BY BUS: direct from Lucca or Florence BY PLANE: From Pisa (Galileo Galilei) airport on Ryanair.

Written by Titti Godi – Owner of Property 407278 in Pistoia, Italy

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                                                                                              Recent Reviews

                                                                                              A wonderful rural retreat well situated for exploring the main sights of Tuscany

                                                                                              5 of 5
                                                                                              Villa Martinelli is in the village of Valdebrana and being half way up the (steep) hill of the village it commands breath-taking and uninterrupted views of the adjacent hillside and a panorama down to Pistoia. The villa is a self contained two storey apartment attached to the owners house. To reach the bedroom/s and bathroom upstairs, you need to be able to climb a narrow, metal spiral staircase. The villa is beautifully clean and well maintained and contains all the equipment needed. I would however agree with previous reviews that some extra cutlery and cups/mugs would save the need to wash up ! There is a lovely covered terrace just outside the kitchen on which to enjoy shady meals, and the choice of two other eating areas nearer to the pool. There is no shortage of chairs and sunbeds on which to relax and enjoy the view in either the sun or shade. The pool is accessed down two flights of steps and is of good size and well maintained. Beartice and Stefano, the owners, are very friendly and welcoming. Nothing is too much trouble for them and they are on hand for advice about sightseeing, travel and even pizza making in their bread oven - which you definitely shouldn't attempt without Stefano's assistance ! The BBQ however is much easier to use, and although in their garden, visitors can use it whenever they wish. Whilst there are no shops in Valdebrana, Pistoia is very near for all catering needs and there is a restaurant in the village. We definitely recommend using the train (nearest station Pistoia), reasonably priced and regular service. Florence is the obvious must do, but we also recommend Lucca, Montecatini Terme, San Gimignano, Volterra and the coast north from Viareggio. We have fallen in love with this area of Tuscany and love this Villa, we have many things remaining on our "to see" list, so we intend to return and hope to stay here again.
                                                                                              • Review Submitted: 01-Jul-2016
                                                                                              • Date of Stay: Jun 2016

                                                                                              Roomy central apartment

                                                                                              4 of 5
                                                                                              We stayed here for 2 weeks in Aug 2015, the apartment is spacious, but the only private outdoor space is a small balcony off the shower room. We had plenty of clean towels & the apartment was cleaned & beds changed mid stay. The air con was great, as the temp rose to 42 degrees.The town centre is minutes away & has a nice relaxed feel, with lots of good restaurants, cafes & shops. The train station is about a 10 minute walk, buying a ticket is straightforward, remember to validate your ticket. Thanks to the owner who let us stay in another apartment until our first choice was free.
                                                                                              • Review Submitted: 08-Feb-2016
                                                                                              • Date of Stay: Aug 2015

                                                                                              Spacious, historic villa with wonderful views

                                                                                              4 of 5
                                                                                              The villa owner Raffaello greeted us very warmly even though our flight to Pisa had been delayed and we arrived after midnight. Some provisions had been left in the kitchen to tide us over until we could get to a supermarket. Raffaello took one of us down the hill to show us a local bread shop on the first morning to buy croissants and rolls. One day he generously bought us some speciality breads. Raffaello and his wife are around much of the time, very helpful but not intrusive. Their spaniel Oscar is charming - inquisitive but shy! The rooms are spacious and the stairs fairly steep. We stayed in July and it was exceptionally warm, frequently 37 degrees, and we valued the fans which had been placed in the bedrooms. Mosquitoes were prevalent so do take plenty of mosquito repellent at this time of year. Sitting on the terrace overlooking Pistoia whilst eating our breakfast or supper was very nice. You definitely need a car if renting this villa as it is too far out of town to walk in. However, we recommend the train for a day trip to Florence as there is so little parking there.
                                                                                              • Review Submitted: 10-Sep-2015
                                                                                              • Date of Stay: Jul 2015