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There can be few holiday cottages with such a beautiful and historic setting as Eden - Castle Cottage in Koroni on the Messinian peninsula of Greece. We arrived 24 hours after a rare 'medicane' passed over the region, and the British owners, Nick and Jean Moeser, were lamenting the loss of olives from the grove in which the cottage nestles. But the sturdy building was well protected within the castle walls. There's a sizeable main room perfect for two, plus a separate bathroom and kitchen - and the added extra of an outside kitchen - that added up to probably the best-equipped self-catering accommodation we've experienced. The garden deserves a visit from Monty Don, planted to create a series of 'rooms' from which you can watch resident humming-bird moths harvesting nectar while you enjoy a Mythos or the increasingly excellent Messinian wines.
Koroni has much to commend it as a base, whether you plan to tour the area or just to enjoy the nearby Zaga beach. Tavernas we rated included Anna's Corner, Bogris 2 and Restaurant Parthenon - plus ice creams at Dodoni, and espresso and Metaxa at Versus Cafe.
Koroni is a gem, rough-hewn from the rocks on which the castle stands, and we'll be tempted on our return to turn right on leaving Kalamata airport (after 20 years of visiting the Mani peninsula and the Taygetos mountains that you can see across the bay), drive down the coast road and up through the arched entrance to Koroni castle, and the little Eden within.
We have just returned from a fabulous holiday in this beach house. It really is right on the beach! Rosemarie and Vassilis were lovely. Very friendly and gave advice on where to go in the area and provided us with water, wine and olives among other things! Lovely castles to visit in Methoni, Koroni and Pylos. Good choice of tavernas within walking distance. We found it just perfect and would definitely stay here again.